From the punk origins of Vetements Demna Gvasalia has made great strides, even coming to conceive a Haute Couture collection, which is not typically associated with punk at all.
And yet, the rebellious attitude of the designer is rife in every collection, one glimpses the ways in which he oversteps the limits of the known, going further and further with dusting off old preconceptions.
That’s exactly what he did in Balenciaga’s Haute Couture debut. After 53 years of absence from the Haute Couture calendar, the French Maison is back to upset the austere atmosphere of the couture world.
With this collection, Gvasalia intended to establish a dialogue with different generations, opening the world of high fashion to the young. This acquires even more meaning, if you consider that many fashion houses today have downsized themselves with offers increasingly rooted in streetwear.
The boundaries too defined and apparently impossible to overcome are now erased. The designer at the head of Balenciaga has understood this for a while, just think of the latest collaboration with Alessandro Michele.
Modernity, comfort, and completely new silhouettes are on the catwalk, conceived as in the most traditional high fashion shows of the ’50s. Gvasalia takes literally the meaning of Haute Couture, but at the same time he connotes it with a deeper meaning: the freedom to express all his creativity without any form of constraint, both in style and with gender.
“I’m experimenting instinctively, without intellectualizing too much – although I usually tend to. The fashion industry has been suffering for some time from a lack of creative freedom, everything is devoted to increase sales; with high fashion, you do not have to worry about this; it is truly a celebration of craftsmanship and freedom in creating,” explains the designer.
The result of this creative exercise is a combination of mix & match dresses, high fashion jeans combined with oversized sweaters or double-breasted jackets and sweatshirts. The evening gowns, tight at the waist in full respect of the style of Cristobal Balenciaga are just a classic.
Then elegant black tuxedos, maxi domed hats designed by Philip Treacy combined. with evening dresses or suits with black skirts in faux crocodile leather. Polka dot, plaid and écru fabrics dominate the collection, along with dresses inspired by the archives of Cristobal Balenciaga in black shantung fabric.
Also from the archives, a reinterpretation of the trompe d’oeil gown with embroidered flowers on jacquard by maison Jean-Pierre Oillier. Gvasalia has been able to perfectly combine the most historic and iconic features of the Maison, with elements of a strong modern thrust, under the banner of a new, rebellious Haute Couture.