In the frame of the Jardins d’André Le Nôtre at the Castle of Vaux-le-Vicomte, the presentation of the women’s autumn/winter 2021-’22 collection by Celine took place. On the delicate notes of a harp, which alternated with those of “Un Daydream” sung by Regina Demina, Hedi Slimane unveiled his Parade. The title of the collection refers to Rimbaud’s poem that cites: “J’ai seul la clef de cette parade sauvage”, I alone have the key to this wild show.
For the entire presentation other poetic motifs appear to stand with the initial one. The decadent theme, evoked through the black and white shots on the statues, opposed to the syncopated movements of the models. It echoes in the words of Baudelaire: “Ma jeunesse ne fut qu’un ténébreux orage, traversé çà et là par de brillants soleils”. And in those of Verlaine: “Son regard est pareil au regard des statues”. Both evoke an image of interrupted youth, dominated by the excess but also by a persistent melancholy.
And in a way, although it’s a very raw message, these are the same emotions that many young are reliving today because of the COVID-19 pandemic.
With these premises, to say the least, bright, Slimane offers us his image in winter 2021. A rather cold and rigid winter, whose atmosphere transpires from the numerous garments superimposed on each other, created in layers. Slimane’s fashion wants to protect and defend from the outside world. This is demonstrated by the numerous ecru jackets and puffs from which appear sequin dresses or a sporty-cut top. We also can see sweatshirts, tweed jackets, leather jackets, accompanied by riding boots.
The clothes are functional, not very conspicuous. On the contrary rather sober, characterized by an unostentatious luxury that makes of jeans and oversized blazers its distinctive feature. The urban style declined by the hats with the “C” logo on the front, contaminates the looks by making them more versatile and suitable for the contemporary world.
Despite the austere atmosphere of the presentation, the show closes with an entirely unexpected and hopeful scenario. Against the backdrop of the fireworks that illuminate the night sky, a model dressed in a pink crinoline dress watches the show next to a deer. Certainly an ending we all aspire to.