What clearly resonates through this pre-fall 2021 Erdem’s collection is the never-ending contrast between contemporaneity and romanticism, this time evoked through floral patterns on dresses and pleated skirts accompanied by combat boots and leather gloves.
When speaking about the creations to Vogue, Erdem Moralioglu told himself inspired by Nancy Mitford’s wardrobe, after spending the quarantine reading her 1949’s work Love in a Cold Climate. “Formal casualness” is how he described the collection, to which one can add an echo of aristocratic vibe, evoked through to the delicate hand-embroidered details on dresses and bags, the use of silk and jacquard skirt suits.
These elements are smoothed by a revolutionary wave given by some details closely linked to men’s clothing and structure, all of which recall Nancy Mitford’s own sense of progressive style; “She marched to her own drum in a time when you had to dress in a certain way,” Moralioglu added.
In this sense, emblematic are the big mohair cardigans, trench coats, jumpsuits and gardening boots. Revolutionary is also the designer’s intention to promote the collection in different body sizes, reaching size 22. “There’s a great power in being able to dress lots of different women. I would hate for someone to feel like they can’t be part of this world.”, the designer stated.” When something is beautifully designed and considered, it should be able to work in different sizes. So why would you limit the sizes you offer?” Surely something Witford would have approved.