For the brand’s 15th anniversary, Erdem Moralioglu presented a balanced spring-summer 2022 collection with clean silhouettes, which rediscovered a new elegance.
Presented on the colonnade of the British Museum in Bloombsury (from the pandemic even the neighborhood of the designer’s new home), Moralioglu was inspired by the iconic style of the English poet Edith Sitwell, and Ottoline Morrell, a friend of the famous Bloomsbury Group.
The style of 20th-century London dominates the catwalk, and is clearly visible in the cut and shape of the clothes, free from too many superstructures. The designer said he was strongly inspired by their lifestyle. “I was really fascinated with these two women—both six foot—who knew each other, and donated to the British Museum”, said Moraliouglu. “Both women lived outside of the time that they actually lived in: Ottoline Morrell dressed in kind of Edwardian dress in the 1930s, and Edith Sitwell would wear something kind of medieval. They were displaced and disjointed in terms of time and pace”, he remarked.
A constant in the collections of Erdem, is precisely the reference to artistic trends and fashion of the past; in this case, the designer does the same, but this time, he enriches the silhouettes of the twentieth century with different details.
First of all, the use of materials less rich than those of the past, decorated with floral and abstract motifs on dresses and skirts; note also the meticulous work with lace as ‘knitwear.
Despite the distant temporal reference, the spring-summer 2022 collection stays anchored to the present. But it also offers a moment of escape but also an inspiration for a simple and delicate future.
Edith Sitwell’s iconic work, Astronomers and Gardeners‘s poems published in 1953, frames the presentation of the fifteenth anniversary, giving the general atmosphere that extra touch of romance we needed.