Earlier this year, the creative direction of Maison Azzaro passed into the hands of Olivier Theyskens. Just a few weeks after the news was released, the lockdown closed the whole Europe and all the creative dreams that Theyskens could have had regarding his debut have been postponed until a later date. Meanwhile, a Couture collection was due anyways and the designer told the press about his mornings of solitude in the fashion house’s headquarters, where he designed starting from the archive (immense and multifaceted) treasured in Rue St-Honoré’s offices.
Even if the garments presented are less in number than what we would have expected from a regular couture, they are enough to make us understand how the Azzaro archive has had a great effect on Theyskens. From the 1960s to the end of the last century, photographs and clothes trace back almost half a century of history, with its avant-garde movements and its sensualities which still have a great charm in the present. The same adjectives can be used for the clothes of the collection which was exceptionally presented through a music video, made by the Belgian director Lukas Dhont. The protagonist is Sylvie Kreusch, of Belgian roots as well: her pop music hides something profound and intriguing, almost punk, and perhaps for this reason she is the perfect interpreter of the collection.
In a dark theater she performs in the only glimpse of light that points to the stage. She wears a long laminated dress, the neckline of which opens in two circles on the chest. Then she changes her clothes and wear a long dress in golden fabric, then again a black slipped jersey dress, made special by a long Swarovski decoration and then again a black coat long to the feet which, in addition to the dizzying gap, is made special by the jewel buttons on the front.
It looks like a simple collection, which however hides a good dose of refinement. Together with the sensuality and special allure of the femme fatale.
Cover image via @sylviekreusch