The Chanel Couture collection by Virginie Viard gained great approval from the public. If you simply watch the short introductory video, then you understand why. Music, models and clothes speak of lightness and rebellion, without failing the classic and bon ton style of the French Maison. If punk is a word that does not match with haute couture world, it’s always nice to see that fashion is ready to contradict us and show us that everything is indeed possible.
The result is more alive and genuine than ever. Dresses and suits are ad hoc reinterpretations of the Maison’s classics. Tweed is, of course, the main fabric, paired with organza, moiré and even a silver laminated fabric, wonderful on Adut Akech. Jewelry makes the difference. They are showy and decidedly edgy, made of gold and precious stones. Hands full of rings, precious necklaces with vaguely rough cuts and an earring made with a long red feather. And then of course the hair, as well implemented with a blue feathers fringe.
Viard herself said that, given the format and the special situation, she felt free to show accessories and combinations that she would have reservations to bring to the catwalk. As far as we are concerned, the result is engaging and modern, and we hope to see Viard out of its comfort zone more often.
The inspiration was Karl Lagerfeld and, specifically, his friendship relationship with the muse princess Diane d Beauvau-Craon. Forced to live in the rigid and traditionalist context of her family, the princess showed a rebellious soul from an early age. Her clothes were a way of expressing her individuality. Like the time when, on the occasion of her debut ball, she decided to cut her hair crewcut style, to contrast the pink dress her mother had chosen for her.
Mademoiselle Chanel was a rebel of the same kind and, perhaps, Maison Chanel needs to find this spirit back.
Cover image by Mikael Jansson, courtesy Chanel