Among the many fashion movies we have seen in the last period, Gucci has decided to go big (as usual): a single video was not enough and the collection has been presented throughout 7 short movies, signed Gus Van Sant, along a whole week. Perhaps because Van Sant is a movie genius, or maybe because the seven episodes present crazy and thoughtful dialogues and a smooth reality (and God knows how much we need some serenity right now) or simply because Alessandro Michele knows his business well, fact is that no one really missed the classic fashion show this time.
The event has been so rich, it is rather impossible to give a single exhaustive explanation of it. There are several references to past directors and movies, part of the soundtrack comes from Van Sant’s work itself: for instance, the piano sonata number 14 by Beethoven, which is a big theme in his movie Elephant and is the translation, with its infinite repetition of chords, of the eternal recurrence of events and things over and over again. If we want to sum it up, we can at least do so for clothes and outfits, which is indeed the final goal of this huge, wonderful, mise-en-scène.
Overture of Something That Never Ended stages some pieces from Michele’s first collection at Gucci, in February 2015: speaking of eternal return, it is just appropriate, isn’t it? Today even more, since the second hand market is rising fast and goes hand-in-hand with the great nostalgia of past times, which looks back at past collections and garments and invites us to reinvent them.
Nostalgia is usually linked with a deep uncertainty about the future, but this is not the case of Michele, who knows well where he is going – and us with him. Precisely, towards a fluid future, where fashion diktats do not exist anymore and everybody wears just what s/he likes. All the things flow together, fabrics and prints, but also music genres and people of all age and sex. It is a space where everything runs in circle, with no time, no deadlines, eternally and happily.
Gucci’s universe is not only happy, but also easy: if we make the right choices and buy the right pieces, we are going to have a forever-lasting wardrobe, setting us free, once for all, from seasonal trends and purchases.
Two are the cult pieces of the collection that come directly from the past: the Jeckie bag and the fur mules. They came to stay. We can buy both on Gucci’s website but also on every luxury second-hand e-commerce: if you are not lucky enough to posses them already, better to make this investment for life now.
Two other garments Michele is willing to bring along in the future are the silk plissé dress with flower print on red background, that the protagonist Silvia Calderoni dropped from the balcony in the first episode; and the smooth blouse with balloon sleeves and big bow on the neck worn by the blonde guitarist in the fifth episode, The Neighbours. They have been presented five years ago but “they are still beautiful” says Michele himself. And how could we disagree: time is a relative concept and so is beauty. While we wait for them to drop in the shops, we can look online for some valid, vintage alternatives.
The collection is however cool in all its part. We especially loved the lace jumpsuit in black, used as a pajamas in the first episode, but also the colourful bermudas, coats and 70s suits. And, of course, Harry Styles, Billie Eilish and Florence as well. All of them have a great future ahead.