Erdem Moralioglu has a special and well-known taste for theatricality. He also worked for ballet (in 2018, for the Royal Opera House) and the Fall-Winter 2021 collection is born out of this experience. The looks are both theatrical and down-to-earth, beautiful and passionate. The setting, made up of intense shadows and lights, ulteriorly emphasizes the contrast that is the fil rouge of the entire collection. If you think about it, the times we live in are contrasting as well.
Knitwear dominates, in basic colours, such as grey and black. Not only in sweaters and lovely shoulder-less cardigans but also in one-piece suits, soft gloves and sleeves, hot pants and headbands. They are the classic accessories of dancers and are very comfortable pieces for staying at home too. Together with it, there are the real highlights of the collection, directly inspired by real theatrical costumes. Dresses mostly made of tight bodices and full skirts, of coloured satin, tulle, sometimes feathers.
All encrusted with matching stones, whose contrast with knitwear is delicate and captivating: even in leisurewear, what matters are the details, and a single jewel can make all the difference.
We like Erdem because he is dramatic but also very soft, he creates exquisite pieces that we could (we would, we should) wear every day. The show was an opportunity for interesting reflection too, since it gave us a way to think in a (far from obvious) way about our current life: indefinitely suspended in a present that seems static, full of action that however ends in the reduced context of our homes and cities.
Cover image courtesy of: Erdem, by Jason Lloyd-Evans