LFW S/S 2023: tributes, romanticism and extravagance
The city of London once again had to forego the longed-for return to normality. On 8 September, Queen Elizabeth II passed away and this inevitably had an impact on the entire London sphere. The program changed and for the day of the funeral, the 19th, all events were cancelled. The British Fashion Council ruled that fashion week could go ahead, forgoing non-essential parties and events out of respect for the national mourning.
Some designers decided to cancel the fashion show, as in the case of Raf Simons, others decided to move it, as in the case of Burberry who rescheduled it for 26 September and still others decided to pay homage to the Queen with simple gestures, as JW Anderson did by taking a black dress down the catwalk with “‘Her Majesty The Queen, 1926-2022, Thank you” written on it.
Besides the tributes, on the catwalk we saw a lot of romanticism with floral dresses, flounces and tulle, but also extravagance given by the particular shapes and neon colours.
Voluminous dresses and neon colours flooded the catwalk with the presentation of Molly Goddard’s spring summer 2023 collection. The brand with a strong and precise identity has established itself over the years thanks to its fairy-tale aesthetic. Tulle abounds, especially in the skirts of dresses, and cowboy boots in various colours to contrast the dresses with a romantic spirit. The brand, which also deals with wedding dresses and accessories, closed the show with three unconventional, but rather extravagant and over-the-top wedding dresses.
Rejina Pyo is a brand dedicated to women all over the world. Watchword: comfort. For the coming season, she brings to the catwalk dresses that embrace the many different roles a woman can play, always remaining consistent with her personality and what she wants to convey. Soft suits and dresses that glide along the body in neutral tones. For accessories Rejina Pyo chooses knitwear: headwear, handbags and bras worn over dresses.
The usual extravagance from Simone Rocha, the internationally renowned brand that earned a standing ovation at the fashion show for the presentation of its spring summer 2023 collection. Captivating was the romantic floral style brought to the catwalk with dresses with puffed sleeves and bomber jackets, all accompanied by delightful bags with particular shapes embellished with pearls. Straps, ribbons, veils and tulle flounces dominate every look.
Not just a fashion show, but an art exhibition. The garments Erdem brings to the catwalk for next season tell a story through dresses with full skirts filled with floral prints, flounces and veils. Inevitable is the homage to Queen Elizabeth, to whom the designer has always been attached, just as he is attached to all things historical and artistic. In particular, the tribute comes through the black dresses and veils, which paraded on the eve of the funeral.
Lace, leather and transparencies triumph at Burberry. The brand, which postponed the fashion show in observance of Queen Elizabeth’s death, brought to the catwalk a collection strong in the materials used and the cuts of the garments. The colours embrace various shades, from more neutral tones, including the brand’s typical tartan, to more intense colours such as the yellow and blue suits. Another particular detail is the jacket in denim and other fabrics tied around the waist on dresses and coats.
After postponing the show for the death of the Queen, Raf Simons finally made his London debut this 13 October. Almost futuristic figures wearing skinny leggings in neon and polka dot shades juxtaposed with jackets, mesh tank tops and sleeveless jackets in various colours. Trousers, skirts and dresses are reduced to a minimum. Minimal jewellery and below-the-knee boots complete the looks.
ON COVER: Rejina Pyo, Erdem, Molly Goddard