For the Artisanal 2021 collection, the equivalent of Haute Couture for Maison Margiela, Galliano conceived a real film, A Folk Horror Tale, in which the models fight for survival on a desert island.
Directed by Oscar winner Olivier Dahan, the film is the result of a long exercise of psychological introspection, on which the natural elements have a considerable influence. So, in a dystopian setting to say the least, the Artisanal 2021 collection is revealed, conceived not only for the models but with them.
Indeed, Galliano collaborated with some of the main characters so that the clothes were the result of multiple interpretations and inspirations. The sense of community is stronger than ever, especially in the post-pandemic world.
For the realization of the collection Galliano was the first to be inspired by the shots of Dutch fishermen, their jackets and wide trousers, and by the Guernsey sweaters. In addition, what most interested the designer this time was to represent the emotions one can feel while being at the mercy of forces which are impossible to control.
Does it sound familiar? Obviously the current situation has weighed heavily on the creative momentum of Galliano. And it’s just because of that he didn’t let us down. Indeed, his dystopian and sometimes disturbing visions, suggest how fashion can translate on clothes what you live every day.
With Artisanal 2021, Galliano takes us to a parallel world (maybe not so much), in which even if you are alone we are together, and the dress reflects this aspect equally. There are many oversized coats, as well as long dresses with a screwed silhouette. Like people, even clothes are tried by fatigue and bent by the force of nature. Galliano calls essorage the technique that he used to achieve this effect. This process consists of removing the color and wringing the fabric.
This work on the clothes certainly does not end here; the inner parts of skirts and suits become dresses, whereas pieces of denim and loden blend with other fabrics. 19th century corsets alternate with more modern jackets worn on the reverse and medieval masks and crowns.
It is certainly a collection in which risk and experimentation dominated the creative process. Maybe it’s precisely this new, disruptive approach that has decreed the end of Haute Couture as we know it.