Like it or not, we must admit that Slimane is very able in creating momentum.
The Celine menswear collection for Autumn 2021 has been presented in the suggestive location of the castle of Chambord (in the Loire valley), on a decidedly engaging soundtrack (it is the re-adaptation of a French military march by the Barnett brothers). Melancholic androgynous models, halfway between the Middle Ages knights (and their obscure brotherhoods) and the dissolute rock-and-roll-teen of the Slimanian imaginary.
In the latest collections, Slimane focused on the everyday, offering beautiful yet simple looks – easy both to wear and to replicate, as many pointed out. His goal is to reach the younger group of buyers, also through the massive use of logos. Therefore, it is better to start from wearable and careless looks. This collection has a slightly more heroic flavour, perhaps because of the high-sounding presentation, but it does not change in the essence.
Black and white dominate and reflect the architecture of the Castle. The shirts have Renaissance-like collars high on the neck, the thick leather vests are studded along the seams as if they were part of medieval armour. They are however worn with ultra-modern elements, coming from streetwear: sweaters and sweatshirts, white sneakers, large chain jewels (necklaces and earrings) and chockers. The two most striking accessories – the ones that will probably have the biggest impact on the public – are the logoed balaclavas and oversized fur boots. They might seem suitable for a trip in the snow, but we will almost certainly see them around the city as well, at least the balaclavas.
The Celine’s man by Hedi Slimane has his history and his heritage well in mind, but he definitely lives in the present. He does not disdain a tailored suit and lace-ups, but he wants them to have a modern allure: his vocabulary is therefore made up of surprising details and unexpected combinations, in which everything goes well with everything because, after all, the spirit is what matters the most.
Cover image courtesy of: Celine