Menswear FW 2020: Paris
Paris is the capital of love, and we are not just talking about romantic love. Love can mean many things and, in a substantially patriarchal world, it is interesting to note that it is almost always associated with the female figure.It is also interesting to note that man, while considering himself at the top of the social pyramid, is absolutely forced into rigid gender stereotypes when it comes to clothing. The woman, on the contrary, has always been free to wear the most questionable trends, while the man stands still with 4/5 fundamental pieces, around which he turns his entire wardrobe. Perhaps they have realized that sacrificing all the fun for power is not worthy so much.
Valentino interprets the stylistic codes of gentle love this season. Formal suits, coats and sleeveless dresses are embellished first by stylized flower prints, then by words of love in big size. The collection is characterized by grace and, while remaining absolutely wearable, it is not at all boring. It is the perfect materialization of what we all want love to be: the place to return to find courage and freshness.Hermés also presents a very fresh and young collection. The class of the brand, the exclusivity of materials and processes, are all clearly evident, especially when it comes to leather goods. But in this collection there is a spirit that has been missing for a while now and that lies in details. Like the buckle that closes the tailored trousers or blazers and coats with a double layer. Classy and chic, of course, but also irreverent.
Precisely details have transformed the man as we knew him into the man of tomorrow. Long shirts, laminated materials, bows and long elbow gloves, the man of the 1920s is, once again, a dandy who loves fashion. Especially if it represents a muffled world in which to take refuge.The dream bubble, if we can call it that, has been the background of many Paris shows. Starting from Rick Owens, whose eccentric and imaginative catwalk was invaded, at floor level, by a thick layer of fog. A sort of cloud on which the models walked. The inspiration is clear, there is no doubt about it. David Bowie, sexual liberation, sensuality in ambiguity and absolute freedom to choose who to be tomorrow. The show-opening jumpsuit speaks clear, even if it abandons Bowie’s aggressive fabrics and prefers a comfortable and inviting wool.Owens himself declared the intent of the collection, which rhymes perfectly with what was said above: “it is a game, but if it is done well it can be sincere and authentic” and still “feeling comfortable in our jeans is joyful”.
If sensuality has always been an integral part of Owens’ aesthetics, with all that exposed skin and even more captivating see-not-seen, seduction has been the second common denominator of this week in Paris.Jacquemus first of all, in which seduction is suggested, veiled, never explicit. Go through small details, such as loose shirts and unbuttoned trousers. The tones are natural, as are materials. The inspiration comes from many stylists, from Giorgio Armani to Martin Margiela. This was certainly the most talked-about fashion show, especially for the presence of every model that counts today, starting with the beautiful Laetitia Casta.For Paco Rabanne and Ann Demeulemeester, on the contrary, the forms suggest the underlying bodies, which are not explicitly discovered but are nevertheless shown through extremely tight-fitting garments.
Dior men’s collection uses the codes of seduction to its advantage as well, but it does it in a different way than the collections we have already talked about. Kim Jones brings together visually strong looks, full of information and layers. The solid color alternates with the patterns, the stiff and thick fabrics are replaced with light cotton. The devil is, once again, in the details, in certain satin edges and in those long gloves above the elbow, which look like a second shiny skin. A must have accessory. It is the epitome of the refined man we spoke of before, whose strength lies precisely in knowing how to wear delicate silhouettes without losing his masculinity.
words by Giulia Greco