The first look coming down the runway at Tod’s fashion show is the exact representation of what the designer, Walter Chiapponi, has in mind for autumn 2020. A relaxed look, consisting of an slouchy blazer, shirt and wide trousers. To complete the whole, a soft and simple scarf around the neck and a pair of equally comfy trainers. No exclamation marks, no suspense, no drama. The Italian style returns to its pure essence: it is chic and absolutely irresistible, but it is relaxed and casual at the same time. The entire collection is developed according to these guidelines. Blazers and pants are well made, the cut is impeccable and the fabrics are rich in texture, but everything looks simple. Here and there we find special and slightly showy details, such as sequins, but they are only occasional flashes of light. This also applies to sport wear, which is present but only as an undertone of the whole.
A trait on which Chiapponi wanted to play is the sensuality of the woman. Bare legs, 1950s shapes and a structured leather bodice that marks the body over an otherwise very loose shirt are the strong points of the collection. Even in this case, however, it is an unwanted sensuality, not pushed or underlined, but totally casual.
Words by Giulia Greco