Whenever a Maison changes its artistic leadership, and the chosen designer takes up the role assigned to him/her, a small-time stalemate occurs, in which the two parties meet and get to know each other. It is necessary and essential because the new designer must return to the origins of the fashion house, study its history and aesthetic evolution, and then implement his/her personal touch on what has already been done, paving the way for the future.
For Kim Jones it was no different: newcomer to the Fendi family, the English designer has probably spent the last few months studying in-depth Fendi’s past decades and materials, including sketches, clothes and accessories. The Couture collection was his first “Roman” one, and now the womenswear definitively consecrates him in the history of the Maison.
Fendi is approaching the 100th anniversary and it is therefore impossible to refer to everything that has defined its image over time. Although some details are unequivocally inspired by Karl Lagerfeld, the collection is a personal reinterpretation of the brand through Jones’s eyes. In general, the designer wanted to work on the very close relationship between Fendi and Rome, this time in a more subtle way than the Couture.
There are no prints that recall the marble of the colonnades, but the whole collection is in shades of brown, beige and white, which are the dominant ones in the city centre. The scenography (which returns after Couture) summarizes the message: Fendi’s large glass Fs contain pieces of Roman architecture and symbolize the beating heart of the brand, which owes a lot to the capital and its beauty.
There are many dresses in very thin knitwear, woollen suits and slipped silk pieces, to be combined with monogrammed sheer stockings. There is no shortage of furs, of course, but they are all upcycled. After all, this creative recovery technique is the only option for a brand like Fendi, wishing to maintain its tradition but with an eye for the future, that is not only sustainable but also respectful of animals.
Cover image courtesy: Fendi