MFW FW21/22: Philosophy’s Class 1984
For this fall/winter 2021 collection, Lorenzo Serafini conceives a style with clear references to the 80s. Class of 1984, it is the title of the collection, inspired by college years and student life, a period to which we tend to look back with nostalgia and healthy sentimentality.
It’s a riot of uniforms and military cut silhouettes. The sleeves with mega shoulders the figure squared, then tightened at the waist by leather belts, in a majorette style. The cut is aggressive, but is sufficiently diluted by the colors and textures that overlap on the clothes.
The creations clearly show the different technical skills of the brand: we have the pleating on kilt dresses and mini skirts, sleeves and lettuce collars that soften the edgy character, giving it more romantic shades.
The accessories, glasses, colored hats and scarves, the careful work of patchwork on cardigans, sweaters and coats further enrich the garments, giving them light and a more cheeky character.
The dominant traits of the collection are the stripes, which blend into a puzzle of juxtapositions and colors, sometimes with pinstripe effect on jackets, other times simply depicting abstract geometric details, as on pleated miniskirts.
The collection is very current: the inspiration of student life is in fact a relevant theme, if you consider the devastating effects of the pandemic on the school universe and on the sociality of students, a very important element in the formation of an individual.
As the designer rightly pointed out: “The school, a place of culture that shapes generations through comparison, is a firm point that I consider the primary source of growth for young people. I thought back to the meetings and clashes that I faced in those years and I realized how it was a fundamental phase to give shape to my sociality and the expression of my creativity”.
The combat boots on the feet and the belts and the different leather details on the caps give a more dynamic tone to the stylistic complex, enriching the whole with interesting contrasts.
The inspiration of the ’80s, the allure of American college, stands out fully in the patchwork P-shaped baseball uniforms, the most nostalgic and sentimental vein of the collection.