Milan fashion week fall 2022: winds of war extinguish enthusiasm
We thought that the two pandemic years have worn us out, changed our interests and priorities and, at times, made it difficult to follow mundane and fashionable events with a light heart. We were happy to see a great return to the catwalks in presence, a new ferment for the improving situation (also thanks to vaccines). Unfortunately, it seems that these years cannot pass smoothly, and so the Milan fashion week began – and continues – with winds of war. Giorgio Armani, who as always is one of the first voices in the cultural field, has decided to show his collection without music. A respectful silence towards the Ukrainian situation.
We are not here in the right place to report battles or talk about wrongs or reasons. But fashion magazines can’t just talk about clothes. Fashion, like art or design or other, is always influenced by the historical situation we live in. No designer creates a collection without motivation, and therefore we will certainly see in the near future how this horrible news will pour into the creatives’ minds. For the moment, what we have seen and commented on is “only” the the pandemic’s result.
All we can say is that for sure the world would be better off if – all – the great leaders stopped with this desire to place their flag a meter ahead of the others.
As we saw at London Fashion Week, there is a kind of big divide between designers and what they expect from the near future. Some brands have continued – or started – their path of minimalization thinking of essentially daytime looks, wearable and timeless, both in terms of cuts and colors.
Sporty details are everywhere and more or less evident: mixed with very elegant suits such as the Armani sneakers, the long quilted dresses by Max Mara or the magnificent oversized knitted down jacket by Tod’s.
The post pandemic conceived by Alberta Ferretti will be a very different future from what we know for the brand. The designer is definitely in that range of designers who think that we now need much more practical garments than long evening dresses. And if this thought has always been a reality in some way, there are brands like this that were known above all for their glamorous side, unmissable events and parties. Clearly, on a sartorial level, the “day” versions are extremely refined here, including cuts and fabrics.
There is a predominance of silver and velvet that makes every look very rich, combined with fantastic eco furs. Not exactly a change of flag, therefore, but a right adaptation to the changes that the designer has noticed in her clients. At the end we find some evening dresses that best remind us of the brand we are looking at.
The other side of the coin looks to a futuristic return of parties and eccentricity. The watchword is to get noticed, without ifs and buts. Green light therefore to bright colors, very high straps, sexy cut-out dresses, metallic fabrics and new dimensions. A bit of healthy self-centeredness, and if there really won’t be a gala occasion with a sparkling dress, at least let us escape into different situations. Like the sports ones. In fact, there is a large quantity of down jackets and technical fabrics revisited and inserted in contrasting contexts, such as the impalpable dresses by Prada or the ethnic atmospheres of Dsquared2.
Very high return of the style of Roberto Cavalli. Watching through the looks of this collection it seems to be back in the 90s-2000s. Evening dresses with incredible cuts and prints and great sensuality.
Sensuality and strength of spirit are two adjectives always present for Dolce & Gabbana and Versace. The designers speak to young people and the Metaverse, with their avatar women conquering the real world in mega eco furs with bright colors and futuristic sunglasses. Athleisure details are mixed with pencil skirts or evening sandals.
Trussardi is under the new creative direction of Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işıkci, who give us a darker Matrix’s version in more dull tones, with dizzying slits, hoods and tall (or sky-high) leather boots.
Sportmax explores the woman’s body with bold hourglass tailored constructions, in contrast to the rigorous cuts of outerwear.
Opulence and surrealism have always been part of Jeremy Scott in Moschino, and this fall / winter 2022 / ’23 collection is no exception.
all images courtesy of the brands. ON COVER from left: Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Etro