Since last February, everything the fashion system could think about (more or less) was Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada union. It is not born out of the necessity of giving new life to a brand that, honestly, did not need it. Miuccia – as the web all is calling her tenderly – is an icon in her own right now – of culture and style, also because of the many lateral projects she is involved in, like Fondazione. Raf Simons, on the other side, is the rebel child of the fashion system, genius not always understood, often underestimated in sales. A marriage of this type arises, of course, curiosities and expectations. The Covid19 pandemic brought not few problems to the collection (and to the show) of debut of the couple. They made it after all, and Simons is also going to present his first womenswear collection with his name, meaning that the lockdown was good for him. The after-show conversation between them is already a must seen online, and we have some memes coming out of it.
The collection is the perfect distillate of the two worlds, which come together and try to find a way to dialogate, in order to proceed together and help each other. It was probably hard at the beginning, since the two are first ladies strong in their opinions. Thus, the collection has inspirations from Prada’s archives on one side, and pieces coming from previous Simons’ works, from Calvin Klein and Jil Sander mainly. Simons and Prada lovers out there are probably already listing influences and provenances (her prints, for example, and Simons’ holes’ sweater). It is a very clean collection, linear and made mainly of suits and long pleated skirts worn with plain sweaters. The oversized hoodies with tight turtlenecks are an amazing street detail.
What makes the two very similar in their essence is the total love for women, their need of serving them first and foremost, giving them the necessary to empower them. Speaking of Prada, the concept of uniform is often arise: for Miuccia it consists in a pleated skirt, a male sweater and a pair of slippers indeed. The idea is, probably, to give modern women an uniform where they can feel themselves protected now. In roder to do so, the creative due came back to the origins and, as Miuccia said ““In a time of incredible complexity: What matters? What is meaningful? […] We wanted to create something that makes sense to people, something that is useful”.
Cover image courtesy: Prada