Almost two years have passed since the start of the pandemic and New York appears to us, once again, as the city that is truly fighting tooth and claw – creatively speaking.
What we have seen during this New York fashion week is a strong desire to stand out and get noticed, but out of the canons of eccentricity to get it. There is a pure elegant, classic and feminine component, revisited in a more than modern key. Knitted dresses wrap the body without ever forcing it, patterns have refined tribal or color block references, pleated skirts return to the fore with cuts and in all fabrics, especially mixed in contrast.
The two pieces will also remain in the next autumn, and despite the low temperatures, at least one piece of exposed skin will be required. The shoulders will be rounded and soft, enriched with draperies. The “shine” part that comes closest to the desire to get noticed will be more moderate here, in elegant tones with inserts, and mixed with unexpected fabrics.
This name has now entered our American top ten. Inspired by Allen’s sculptures, Ulla Johnson has created perhaps her best ever collection for next fall winter, about we could only wish for every single piece. She flounced skirts, wonderful long knitted dresses, puffed sleeves and absolute mastery in the combination of fabrics / prints. The accessories? Adorable, especially the mini bags with fringes to hang around the neck.
Joseph Altuzarra is another name that seems to have almost benefited from the emotional turmoil we found ourselves in. In addition to his main collections, which we now fall madly in love with every season, he has launched two fruitful lines for the home and a genderless one. For this next season Joseph was inspired again by nature and the desire to travel. In particular from a tale of a sailor who is seduced and then transformed into a mermaid. And the sensuality, the scales in detail, the marine style are really felt in all their splendor here.
Speaking about brands that have achieved that extra touch of style, and that can now sit on the highest steps of three-zero sales thanks to their right thinking, we cannot fail to mention Khaite. Last month Kendall Jenner guaranteed, wearing a shearling coat from the brand, that the coat would sell for $12,000 with a long waiting list. We know how much emotionality is indispensable to reach certain peaks regarding the leaders, and here we are witnessing a real climb to the top. When a brand reaches fame in the hearts of fashionistas you can immediately notice it, its collections become really bold and deviate a little from the classic canons. But Khaite’s path seems all downhill, if it keeps this sharpness and hardness without falling into excess.
Seasons pass and the genderless feeling becomes more and more rooted, less shouted because it is now entering the routine of our thoughts. Even from previous generations (at least some). Gabriela Hearst cites her teenage daughters and their thoughts on it, stating that young people really want to feel free from the stumbling block of the genre. They truly experience it as an impediment to being themselves. In this collection, the designer wanted to create based on this concept, thinking the pieces not only about women but for anyone who wants them. Clearly, the inspiration of nature is always clearly visible in tones and materials, and that’s what we like so much about this brand.
After Khaite’s coat, Michael Kors reminds us that in New York the imperative is to have a trendy outerwear. In his collection for next autumn winter we can certainly breathe the full American style, modernized by softer and more comfortable details. Ecological furs, color block suits, tight jumpsuits and it is immediately a party atmosphere. It is certain that Kors is fed up with the pandemic life and of pajamas and slippers, and he is sure of the same feeling for his customers too.
all images courtesy of the brands. ON COVER from left: Ulla Johnson, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst