Ulla Johnson has presented her collection with no public, in a New York calmer than usual and “painted” in the background of the runway. Skyscrapers stand out on the sky in a peculiar American way and give us contrasting feelings, of a reassuring urban jungle that just escaped a storm. It is really hard to describe such a tense and complex moment.
The same complexity can be found in Johnson’s collection. Her expressionistic lexicon, her cure for details and the impressive craft of each garment are very visible in the Spring Summer 2021. The colourful knitted dresses come together with big macramè and many, many prints – the very signature in Johnson’s production. Maxi dresses alternate acid-washed denim shorts and jumpsuits, while maxi sweaters and blouses are mixed with minimal tops, tight on the body. The real gem in the show, according to us, are the asymmetric tops and dresses. Necklines and flounced waists are bias cut and gift each garment with a careless but elegant allure.
The collection has also been the occasion for the laugh of Ulla Johnson’s new handbag: leather is worked in Italy while the brass details are handmade in Kenya. Accessories are all made of big leather bands, from shoes to belts, which are tight on the waist like reinforced militar corset. This collection is for sure the best weapon to face Spring in the city, made of office hours and lively dinner party which, we hope, are going to cheer us up again soon.
Cover image courtesy: Ulla Johnson by Jonas Gustavsson