The dark and vaguely mystical aesthetic has characterized most of the Fall 2020 collections in New York so far. Anna Sui puts the icing on the cake if we may say so, because her fashion show was the quintessence of it. Makeup, hair style and looks obviously are sumptuous, elaborate, decidedly dark, so much so that they almost become costumes rather than ready to wear.
The designer was at her best and the final result pays off all efforts. Her love for details is amplified in every outfit: different prints, materials and layers make them decidedly rich, although never exuberant. The materials are precisely the strength here, because no one seems to have been left behind. There is printed velvet, vinyl and lurex, but also organza and patchwork crochet. The colors alternate in the background and contrast almost in a metallic way with the clothes’ silkiness. It is certainly a collection that left us speechless because of its huge emotional impact.
Words by Giulia Greco