“NYFW Fall 2020: Ulla Johnson”
We don’t exactly know where to start with the new Fall 2020 collection by Ulla Johnson.
From the colours and the fabrics? Or maybe from the silhouettes, all very structured, and from the chic spirit of the ’80s? On the runways we saw all of this and even more. Including the line of jewelry that the designer developed with a women’s collective based in Kenya, and the set itself, a fast of coloured and smooth marble.
The collection is a continuous alternation of everyday outfits and evening dresses, whose common thread is certainly sumptuousness. Which should not make you think of the cloying elegance to which the word is usually connected to, but of its more modern interpretation, where even a brown crochet dress can become absolutely magnificent.
As we said, colours, prints and materials together create the magic. There is bright green, turquoise, yellow and purple and the most electrifying thing is the change every single shade goes through, passing from one fabric to another. The same green reacts in a totally different way on leather, cotton or on the structured silk, giving a real joy for the eyes, which are filled with these waves of color of different texture.
Beautiful dresses with diagonal cuts and thick belts that mark the models’ waistline. Among our favorites is the camel-coloured wool suit, with a knot at the waist and matching gloves and boots. It is the quintessence of New York chicness. And the leather jumpsuits, worn with ton-sur-ton blouses in silk with very (very) wide shoulders.
Words by Giulia Greco