NYFW S/S 2023: comfort, colour and attention to detail
Like every September, New York is the first to open its doors to the trends that will accompany us next spring summer 2023. During fashion week, fashion fills not only the catwalks, but the entire city. The streets are filled with extravagant looks and there is a magical atmosphere in the air. After all, New York is the city of dreams.
Also populating the city during this year’s fashion week was the 130th anniversary of Vogue, with the ‘Vogue World’ event on 12 September. Not only a fashion show, but also a true immersive experience.
Back to the brands that presented their spring summer 2023 collections, we saw garments on the catwalk that were full of colour, comfortable and with a special attention to detail. Fringes, crochet, overlays and cut outs are just some of the trends that are now recurring season after season.
Proenza Schouler celebrates its 20th anniversary with this collection. The American brand, born from the collaboration between designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, was the first show during this New York fashion week. For the coming spring summer season the duo brought to the catwalk particular cuts, typical of each collection, fringes and lots of lace. All with a clear reference to the Latin culture of Lazaro Hernandez, as for example in the flounces or flared trousers. Minimal accessories that undoubtedly make the dress the focus.
Altuzarra is a brand focused on offering modernity and sensuality. For this coming season, designer Joseph Altuzarra was inspired, as he is used to do, by nature but also the idea of travelling to psychedelic experiences. Dresses with tie dye prints and fabrics are the highlight of the collection. Overlays, laces coming out of shirts, jackets and dresses, and sneakers completing almost every look for much desired comfort.
Ulla Johnson’s romantic spirit attracts attention season after season. With this collection she takes us into an imaginary world of colours: purple, yellow, pink, but also green and red. Garments for every occasion combined with refined and delicate jewellery. Crochet and fringes in step with the trends. Ulla Johnson focuses on craftsmanship, working with small local businesses on which she
wants to turn the spotlight.
The Italian brand under the creative direction of Francesco Risso flies to New York to present its spring summer 2023 collection. In the orchestra, playing the cello, is also the designer. The textures, prints and colours catapult one into a parallel universe inspired by the changing sunlight from dusk to dawn. Cut outs, leather and transparencies appear on dresses, blazers, coats, but also on tops and flared trousers. For accessories, Risso focuses on glasses, more or less futuristic, with special shapes.
It is a large empty space in which the models of Prabal Gurung, a brand that emphasises individuality and freedom of expression, parade. For this season he offers a wide colour palette, with various shades of pink dominating most of the looks. Soft chiffon that falls along the body, accompanying it without constricting it, the body being the focus of the collection. Transparencies that allow a glimpse of bare skin without ever falling into vulgarity.
Khaite is the brand of looks that go viral with shots that go around the world. One of the most stylish brands of the moment, a guarantee of elegance. From the first to the last look, eyes remain glued and fascinated. Designer Catherine Holstein knows her audience well and offers women exactly what they want. The python print taken from 90s films and in step with the trends fringes, sequins, overcoats and over jackets. Looks that guarantee uniqueness and comfort, but not banality. And to give it all a bit of mystery, black glasses in different shapes.
Elegance, modernity and comfort are the key concepts of this Gabriela Hearst spring summer 2023 collection. Comfort that can be found both in the clothes and in the accessories, flat shoes and more or less wide bags depending on the occasion. The colour gold invades the catwalk with jackets, trousers and tops with particular shapes. The designer, always focused on sustainability, received the Frank Alvah Parsons Award for Sustainability in 2021.
Michael Kors never disappoints. For next spring summer the brand brings its usual elegance to the catwalk, with refined cuts and intense colours alternating with more neutral ones. The looks are enriched by gold buckles taken from the 2002 spring summer collection, as well as small clutches and large structured bracelets. From the clothes to the accessories, everything is so glamorous and sophisticated that it cannot fail to be desired.
ON COVER IMAGE, from left: Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Michael Kors