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Paris Fashion Week: Kenzo SS21

Paris Fashion Week: Kenzo SS21

Autumn is about to come in all Europe and the garden where Kenzo presented its Spring 2021 collection gave us contesting feelings. Wet grass, heavy sky, some strong flowers which still bloom and give unexpected colours to the whole. Constraining were the ideas and the inspirations at the base of this collection as well, as the introduction note explains to the gusts.

The flower theme and the continuous reference to bees, which occurs on different levels throughout the presentation, are both positive notes, a sort of superstitious self-fulfilling prophecy in an unclear world. In the same time, every looks is about practicality: no frills, no forcing, Kenzo wants what is useful only. 

There are plenty of tech fabrics garments, like mini dresses and parkas and demoni as well. Shapes are rather wide and, even in the tighter pieces, the used fabric is so soft and adaptable that nothing is constricting. Zips and pockets abound, and they are a typical characteristic of gardening-wear. Knitwear has some interesting holes and cut outs’ on strategic position on the body, such as shoulders and waist. To catch all the attention was, of course, the wide beekeeper-hats, with specific covering net. It sometimes covers the entire upper body of models and, even if it is not a protection against the pandemic, it helps you out with social distancing. They look like big cocoons where to hide. 

The colours are soft, often fading and streaking, perhaps tracing the real colours of a garden which, the more you look at it, the more it resembles that of Alice in Wonderland. Sandals with raised soles are the must of the entire collection. Flip-flops have already made a huge comeback this summer, especially with exaggerated soles and maxi leather bands. These by Kenzo obviously refer to the tradition of the brand and are destined to become the garment of next summer.

Cover image courtesy: by Filippo Fior


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