The refined talent of John Galliano as a designer is clear in every collection, in the Maison Margiela’s Spring 2021 collection maybe more than ever. Galliano and few others today deserve the title of designer actually, because very few posses the knowledge of fabrics, seams, processes and details, of all a series of material things that give eventually shape to a garment. After all, this is the basic skill you must own if you have to work at Margiela, a brand whose core lays in the question of “how is it made”. Nick Knight collaborated, once again, with Galliano for this Margiela’s collection and we all know he is the exact counterpart of what Galliano is in fashion design, but in digital video contents. In his hands the collection has been expressed and presented at its best. Galliano himself declared to be more than happy, because the digital medium they decided to us is actually very helpful in showing the collection from different points of view, giving a insight in their details which is not possible during a regular fashion show.
The story is about tango and South America’s traditional spirit. It is sensual and lively, full of contesting emotions. Suits, trench coats and jackets are deconstructed and form their open seams the powerful passion of dancers explodes. Midi dresses have a red palette and their normal and clean shapes is enlighten by additional feathers on the hems. Low heeled pumps are worn with sheer socks, the same fabric we find in the headpiece, covering completely the heads of the models. Passione is linked with marriage but also death, there are twins who remind us of The Shining’s protagonists.
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#MaisonMargiela Co-ed Collection SS21 by @JGalliano Look 8 White mille-feuille and heroic cut jacket worn with a black satin bias-cut skirt. Red chiffon ghillies and clear Tabi Mary-Janes. Look 7 White transparent mille-feuille and heroic cut trench coat with wet look lining. Black chiffon ghillies and clear Tabi derbies. Look 5 White transparent mille-feuille and heroic cut jacket with wet look lining worn with black herringbone linen trousers. Red chiffon ghillies and clear Tabi derbies. Photography by @brittlloyd_
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The dark tones, the gloomy sensuality, marriage and tango, life and death, they are all themes present in Magritte’s Les Amants. In the famous painting the two lovers kiss each others despite the white veils covering their faces. The tension is just the same here, where passione is so strong that bypasses the impossibility of communication.
Cover image courtesy: Maison Margiela