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Paris Fashion Week: Paco Rabanne SS21

Paris Fashion Week: Paco Rabanne SS21

There is something disturbing in the event for the Spring 2021 collection by Paco Rabanne – and it is not meant in a negative way, quite the opposite. Maybe it is because of the absence of music, which makes the whole surreal: the only sounds are the ones from the streets, like the ambulance passing by, the clacson of the cars and the daily scuffling which is so common and normal and becomes so odd if amplified and heard in a sort of distant place, muffled as it was the runway.

The street was reproduced but also real, thanks to the back wall which was opened on the actual street, where a small audience was trying to look at the collection, inside a shiny world which was anyways precluded to them. The presence of the “street public” gave us contrasting feelings: Julien Dossena took inspiration from the streets, the ones he lives in since ever, multiethnic and eclectic, but the group of people outside rather underlined the static and circolar structure of an industry which needs to open up and leave behind old and obsolete elitarism. 

The collection is very sensual, because Dossena’s goal is to make women free from gender stereotypes so strong connected with clothes. To be feminine and sensual and to be proud of it is something that takes courage, even today that we think we live in an open and smart society. For this reason there is plenty of lace, corsets which look like lingeries, some leopard print and a loose midi dress in white which recalls a nightgown, in its sensual essentiality.

There are, of course, dresses made of the usual metallic fabric, symbolic of Rabanne works since the very beginning. Dossena investigated already many times the topic of the female warriors, using the aesthetic code of the medieval time and its armies. Warrior women need today  modern version of such a style, in order to go down the streets and fight for their rights. 

Cover image courtesy: Paco Rabanne


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