The presentation of Loewe’s Menswear collection, by Jonathan Anderson, follows the line already taken by the other collections he created, his latest JW Anderson Menswear and Resort. Loewe’s clients literally had a “show in a box” delivered to their address: inside the box, they found all needed to compose and enjoy the collection from home.
In the case of Loewe Men, there is a miniature set, consisting of natural elements, some cardboard mannequins and accessories, to be combined and enjoyed. In the explanatory video, whose vision we highly recommend you, Anderson touches on essential points of his philosophy and of what this period led to Loewe, a fashion house that has increasingly been linked to the concept of craftsmanship and leather goods. In the Spring ’21 garments, the concept of mastery is important more than usual: whether it is the wool thread or the leather strips, the weave that gives life to the finished garment is made possible by the skilled hands of craftsmen. Anderson also wanted to work a lot on the concept of spatiality. Many garments have important architectural shapes, such as the trench coat with curled sleeves, or like Idoia, the waved top in dark leather that takes inspiration from baskets-making and which is in fact a hybrid between a garment and a basket itself. In the collection there is also a hybrid between bag and jacket.
For the collection, Anderson took inspiration from Paul Cadmus’ pictorial works, which are embroidered on a sand-colored sweatshirt. Cadmus is among the many other painter and artists the designer looked at while creating. They talk about delicacy, feeling and emotional connection. In the end, Anderson himself says that this “emotional connection within clothing […] is probably what we need more of “. A statement that applies very well to many of the topics in our daily agenda.
Cover image courtesy: Loewe via vogue.com