“PFW Fall 2020: Alexander McQueen”

Sarah Burton took on a long journey, figuratively but also not, in search of inspiration for this Fall 2020. She found in Wales ancient stories of garments made with waste and recycled materials. Lee McQueen himself did something similar, so Burton created a collection that followed the traces of these unique stories: recycling, past history and heroic figures intertwine in the autumn of Alexander McQueen and create a unique collection. Tailoring on the one hand, the folkloristic past of the United Kingdom on the other, both have an aftertaste of times gone by, where things were studied in depth and treated in detail, where nothing was left to chance. The references to Wales and its traditions are many.

The strength of the collection is the treatment to which fabrics have goon through. The workings are exceptional, among them the dégradé, which changes the consistency of the fabric in the same panel, combining thickness and finesse, strength and fragility in few centimeters. Prints and geometric shapes, especially in the leather garments, are very interesting. In general, the whole collection is a symbol of strength. The cuts, the bodices, the belts tight at the waist and the rigorousness of the suits seem to create the figure of female warriors. 

Words by Giulia Greco