Sébastien Meunier, creative director at Ann Demeulemeester, was influenced by performing arts for this fall 2020 collection, and specifically by The Unicorn, a reinterpretation of the story of Mary Stuart, the famous (and bloody) queen of Scotland, by Robert Wilson – who, not surprisingly, is not only a playwright but also a choreographer, director, painter and sculptor.
Meunier, in the same way, is an all-round artist and tends to take raw material to work it meticulously and obtain pure forms. For this collection as well lines are minimalistic, materials are refined and precious, historical suggestions many. In this sense essential are the jewels, extremely simple, which however implement the body of the models with tiaras, bustiers and even panniers. The green velvet is incredible, the draped dresses are very beautiful and above all poignant. The entire collection brings to mind princess like and decadent clothes, which slip from their place and remain languidly hung on the body. Everything has something sensual and hidden.
Words by Giulia Greco