“PFW Fall 2020: Balenciaga”

Demna Gvasalia thought about the apocalypse, its shape and its consequences for this Fall 2020 collection. The show (or we should, once again, put the capital S in front of it) has brought the spectators into an imaginary world of tomorrow, where the ground is covered by water and the sky is threatening on our aheads. The fashion system wants immersive experiences, Balenciaga is ready to give it exactly what he wants.

Gvasalia investigates the concept of apocalypse both in a modern sense and in a more classical and religious sense. Many outfits are inspired by priests and, above all, by the Orthodox religion the designer come from. The figure of the man is transfigured and taken to the extreme of his perversion (also thanks to the contact lenses that modify the faces of the models in a monstrous way): the body is hidden by long black tunics, but sensuality is still evident throughout the collection. And it is not a fascinating and enveloping sensuality, but rather frightening.

All considered, the collection appears to be much more wearable than some previous ones. There are many interesting coats and jackets, such as the maxi black velvet coat or the straight and rigorous waxed ones. The clothes are mostly slipped and light on the body, almost volatile. The maxi boots up to mid-thigh, in black leather, are irresistible – but in general all leather garments are fascinating. Neoprene suits are a must. The draped evening dresses with incorporated ton sur ton trousers/leggings are one of the most beautiful pieces of the whole fashion week.

Words by Giulia Greco