Rick Owens showed in Paris a few days ago and his women’s collection was the natural continuation of the menswear that went down the catwalk about a month ago. Many are the garments that have been re-proposed and/or modified for the occasion: among others the suit with a single leg becomes an asymmetrical knit dress, a tribute to Bowie, which drives us crazy every time. It is Owens himself who explains his aesthetics and his idea. It is a collection that wants to be play, says the designer, and adds “I see myself balancing out a world that can be kind of very strict in its aesthetics. There have to be people like me that have other suggestions” And how can we blame him after all?
Between sustainability and minimalism, the dominant style of the up coming seasons will be rather linear and simple. And we are deeply happy about it. But surely artists like Owens, whether you like them or not, have the ability to bring fashion back to that concept of artistic production which is sometimes missing. So, dresses with vertiginous slits, coats with exaggerated sleeves and in technical materials, but also in tweed, structured shoulders, mask sunglasses, electric blue shiny leather gloves (but in a rather light and beautiful shade!) that have also openings to turn into sleeves. And then the boots of course, with the exaggerated platform. The most beautiful piece is the down hood that opens like a cloak. Visionary. Owens women are queens of a different era that is yet to come.
Words by Giulia Greco