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PFW FW21: Altuzarra’s chrysalis

PFW FW21: Altuzarra’s chrysalis

For the fall/winter 2021 collection Altuzarra proposed a reflection on the concept of transformation, using the evolution of a chrysalis that becomes a butterfly as a metaphor. Starting from pictures depicting butterfly wings, the designer began to create a fabric by paring the images to each other. 

Like the transition from chrysalis to butterfly, the collection follows a precise process which represents precisely the moment of transition, of change towards a progressive opening.

So, from garments with constrained silhouettes, hidden by coats in neutral tones, you get gradually to lighter garments in which the body is free to move. The clothes in fact have brighter colors, and the lightness of the fabrics clearly transpires from the graceful and sinuous movements of the models.

It is more than ever evident the metaphor that the designer wanted to materially represent in the collection; the passage from an unfortunately necessary stasis, to the desire for movement and evasion; on the other hand, the natural evolution of a butterfly is perhaps the most canonical example that is used to express that sense of freedom and lightness that the designer, like us all, crave more than anything else in this period.

A particular analysis deserves the silhouettes; the beautiful jacket with tight squares at the waist and slightly rounded on the front, as the oversized pants combined for a casual chic look during smartworking. The pleated midi dresses with geometric prints represent the right balance of femininity and sensuality, as well as the braided brown leather dress on the front, a reinterpretation of the classic peplo, which at the end reveals a slit on the leg, elegant but bold.

To finish the fall look, some elements of refined jewelry DE VERA, along with cashmere gloves. The Mini Play Bag is a constant in the collection, together with leather sandals embellished with pearls and fur.


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