What can we say about Maison Margiela that hasn’t been said yet? What more can we add, besides the exclamations of amazement for each of its new collections, always fresh, always in the forefront, always deeply enlightening?If every so often we forget, in the big circus of Fashion, of what the true essence of all it is, Margiela reminds us of it in every season.Ideas, but also fabrics, needle and thread, cuts, stitching, draping and balancing games because in the end the garment encounters the body and creates magic.The men’s blazers are perfect, with a straight cut, striped fabric and sharp cuts on the shoulders. Perforated and overlapping coats are perfect, allowing the layers to be perceived. Nothing is more perfect than the oversize leather jacket that also works as a hood, an idea so simple yet so beautiful (do you remember the leather jacket Margiela did in collaboration with H&M? We do.)
Shoes and accessories are on point as usual and go back and forth, between the feminine world and the masculine world, mixing cards, breaking down borders. Just as there is no longer a border between the sacred and the profane, and Margiela takes the classic veils of the nuns to use them as accessories for very stylish and somehow transgressive, modern nuns.Not just church women, but post-war nurses, with white coats and flashy red accessories, in dialogue with their male counterpart, the soldier who returns from the trenches.It is a beautiful story, that of Maison Margiela, which still does not cease to amaze us.
Words by Giulia Greco