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PFW S/S 2023: spectacularization, preciousness and magic

PFW S/S 2023: spectacularization, preciousness and magic

Almost a month after the start of fashion week in New York, we end on a high note with the brands that presented their spring summer 2023 collection in Paris this week. Big names that are reconfirmed and novelties that are very interesting and promising.
In addition to the beauty of the fashion shows, once again, the spectacle takes place through the involvement of celebrities, such as Cher for Balmain or Kanye West for Balenciaga, but also with special effects as in the case of the dress created on the spot for Bella Hadid by Coperni, which inevitably brings to mind the closing of Alexander McQueen’s fashion show for the spring summer 1999 collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri for this spring summer 2023 collection takes inspiration from the city map of Paris and Catherine De’ Medici, in particular for her contribution to the tailoring of the time. Once again, she brings to the catwalk not only dresses but real performances, in this case of dance. More classical dresses alternate with more modern elements: net gloves, leather dresses and embroidered denim. Recurring elements are long sheer socks worn under sandals, glasses, lace, flowers and transparencies.

Statuesque silhouettes are presented by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent. Long dresses that cover the body, and the head, giving it sensuality and elegance. Leather jackets and coats worn over dresses, sometimes transparent, and trousers. Accessories always play an important role in Saint Laurent, again glasses, belts and large bracelets and earrings create wonderful compositions.

The Row presents the spring and summer collection for 2023 at two different times. This week, he presented the summer with jackets, coats and dresses in neutral colours, paired with thong sandals, ballet flats and low-slung trainers with high socks. In the same vein of neutral colours and minimalist cuts we find Lanvin, who brings chic and refined looks to the catwalk, as well as everyday clothes. Accessories and details, such as beads on tops for a precious effect, enrich everything.

Dries Van Noten combines elegance and comfort, using black for more refined first looks and floral prints on dresses, shirts and overcoats for more casual chic looks. The floral element is also characteristic of the Loewe collection, in which the anthurium leaf returns revisited in shoes, tops and the bodices of dresses. Recurring are skirts, jackets and coats with interesting and geometric volumes.

Rochas proposes important volumes on skirts, shoulders and sleeves. From white, we move towards brighter colours such as fuchsia and blue, but also black. Similarly, white is dominant in Acne Studios, with more minimalist silhouettes, knitted dresses and with transparencies, with some vichy patterns.

Olivier Rousteing thinks big and, above all, thinks about what really matters: the environment in which we live. His fashion show for Balmain is a reflection on climate change. Sculptural shapes, Earth colours and artistic prints. Accessories reasoned in every detail, from material to form. When talking about sculptural forms, one cannot fail to refer to Schiaparelli, whose aesthetic is always a winner. Daniel Roseberry does precision work on dresses that become sculptures, with golden details that are not only parts of the dress, but also real accessories. From the bodices to the decorations on the sleeves, to the buttons, belts and all the other fundamental elements in these looks.

At Chloé, concern for the environment is increasingly a key element and on this occasion too, the materials used are sustainable. Dresses in knit, mesh and leather, also coloured. Craftsmanship is also an important concept at Isabel Marant, which brings crochet dresses, cargo, transparencies and deep necklines to the catwalk.

There are elements that the Nanushka fashion show has in common with that of Hermès: neutral colours, the use of leather and minimalism. At Hermès we find, in addition to plain-coloured garments, geometric patterns in which colours chase each other. Cut-out tops form the basis of more layered looks. Nanushka incorporates denim, crochet and laces.

Pleats and draping for the tailored garments worn on the Yamamoto catwalk. Undoubtedly the dominant colour here is black, characteristic of every look and sometimes combined with splashes of white and artistic prints. The volume effect also returns in the Issey Miyake fashion show, with sculptural shapes and bulges. The brand founder left us last August, so this is the first presentation in his absence.

Elegance reigns supreme with Victoria Beckham, who makes her Paris debut with this collection. Amongst suits and dresses characterised by fringes, transparencies and flounces. Embroidered stockings and bags made of tassels complete the looks in an original way. When one speaks of originality, one inevitably speaks of Vivienne Westwood. For this occasion, Andreas Kronthaler brings to the catwalk extravagant and eccentric clothes as is usual for the brand, with shoes with a very high platform and extra-large decorations on the head. A genderless collection in which the boundaries are increasingly blurred.

With a catwalk immersed in mud, Demna Gvasalia once again proves to be light years ahead and attentive to world issues. In particular, here he shows models who look tired and fatigued by the long journey they are on, as a metaphor for war, a theme dear to his heart. Between mystery and magic, jackets, sweatshirts and overcoats accompanied by peculiar accessories: glasses, plush bags and scarves that look like snakes slithering down the body. From the more sporty and casual style, we move on to more elegant and evening looks with long dresses also in red, pink, silver and fluorescent shades.

Givenchy offers urban clothing mixed with more chic garments. Cargo trousers, both long and knee-length, cropped sweatshirts and oversized bomber jackets matched with long, soft dresses, in some cases embellished with fringes and ruffles. In the same urban style mixed with a more elegant style we find Rick Owens, who proposes bomber jackets and over jackets matched with dresses with voluminous silhouettes, with wide skirts and layers of fabric that leave transparencies. The accessories are striking, in particular the knee-high sandals with fur are a real eye-catcher.

In contrast to the last fashion show in which everything was bright fuchsia, from the location to the clothes, this time Pierpaolo Piccioli, for Valentino, goes back to being more minimalist in form and colour. Sinuous and fluid dresses, embellished with sequins and fringes.

The precious element is also recreated by Stella McCartney, who focuses on asymmetry for this spring summer 2023 season. Coloured looks, frayed denim, but above all tops and jewel dresses brighten up the collection. Lots of colours also for Thom Browne, who brings complex looks on the catwalk, with overlapping and voluminous shapes through a very special fashion show inspired by theatre, Cinderella and an American prom.

On the one hand, prints, maxi dresses with asymmetrical flounced skirts, corsets and bright colours for Zimmermann; on the other hand, particular cuts and silhouettes, combined with neutral colours for Rokh, which experiments by modifying classic blazers and trench coats, inserting belts, buckles and cut outs.

As Virginie Vard’s coup de théâtre for Chanel, Irina Shayk made her catwalk debut. The dominant and characteristic element of the fashion house is tweed, which returns each time as a trademark, this time in pastel shades and in the classic and ever-present black and white. But also polka dot prints and floral elements. Accessories are dominated by jewellery and Mary Jane shoes, simple and embellished with glitter.

At Miu Miu, what is mini has become a must: from last season’s skirts, which also return, to the tops of this coming spring summer. Cargo skirts revisited, in which the garment is directly equipped with a pouch, in favour of an outfit that is not only fascinating but also functional. The same large pockets on skirts are found on waistcoats and over jackets. Layers upon layers of sweaters, shirts and jackets, which also confirm a trend that is still alive. The most interesting accessories are thong boots and mini headbands.

The collection brought to the catwalk by Louis Vuitton is undoubtedly full of disproportionate shapes and extra-large elements, such as buckles, zips and bows. Printed dresses, lace garments and a lot of leather, which gives the whole collection its grit. High-soled shoes, layered jewellery and bags in different shapes and colours, such as one in the shape of a house.

ON COVER IMAGE: Christian Dior, Victoria Beckham /


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