The spring-summer collection 2020 by Andreas Kronthaler, designer for Vivienne Westwood and also her husband, was a rush of eclecticism and extravagance extrapolated from everyday life and from his visionary mind. Despite the appearances– a series of detached looks that proceeded without a logical thread– it seems indeed that there was some method. The structure of “the chapter collection” is in fact a previously experimented method and still used by Demna Gvasalia first for Vetements and now for Balenciaga.“I use things which give me pleasure first, and if they transport me from one point to another that’s what I like” stated Kronthaler backstage.
The result was a play of volumes and romance, that reached its climax in the final wedding dress showcased by Bella Hadid. In-between, there was also the use of some elements seemingly foreign to fashion here reborn as accessories, like the necklaces made of crab claws taken from a restaurant in Thailand, or even the tulle hats, inspired by the way rowers take their boats into the water in Henley.If there was a sort of line of continuity, it has to be found in fabrics; indeed, the entire collection was made of recycled and organic materials, processed in the most sustainable way possible. The main fabric was organic cotton used along with waste materials already present in the creative studio.
Words by Ludovica Mucci