For spring-summer 2022, Yohji Yamamoto has in mind visions anchored to reality, feelings devoid of forced positivism.
On the other hand, Yamamoto’s greatness insists on his ability to describe the real with hardness and severity, but also with extreme poetry and lightness. Seemingly contrasting emotions converge in the suits in the opening, where black and white reign supreme.
The fluidity of the forms is a must in Yamamoto, that precisely for these minimal and reasoned silhouettes manages to move away from fashions and at the same time to remain with feet anchored to the trends of the moment.
The artwork on the fabrics suggests surrealist features, whose drawings of the eyes and hands symbolize the creative process through the idea of movement and visual stimuli.
The more artistic aspects are accompanied by punk looks in makeup and hairstyles, a classic of Yamamoto; the more aggressive motifs are however dampened by floral prints on jackets, a cultural reference to kimonos and the metaphor of protection and safety.
Another equally surrealist touch, perhaps mindful of the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, appears in the last two looks; real newspaper clippings were applied to the fabrics. The image is a clear reference to everything that happens in the world, and how fashion becomes material evidence of it.