Copenhagen Fashion Week dominated the international fashion scene from the 9th up to the 12th of August, carrying on the banner of sustainability and offering various talks and background stories that highlighted the challenges of an event conceived and held during a pandemic.
Many fashion shows have been organized according to a completely innovative and entirely digital format, which has allowed many details – usually lost during physical shows – to emerge from behind the scenes and reach both the audience and insiders.
On the first day of the Fashion Week, the new SS21 collections alternated with interesting panels, which themes ranged from sustainability to the urgency of an anti-racist fashion, up to the challenges of digitalization.
The first one to go live was Whyred, a Stockholm-based brand founded in 1999. The new creative director, Jessy Huevelink, offered us a journey back in time to the 1960s and 1970s. The oniric path presented by Huevelink takes us back on the hippie roads, on an inner journey to inspire you to reconnect with nature and with your inner self. Flared trousers, light dresses with colorful and cheeky prints, wide shirts, and vintage prints. A wink to the stars of Rock ‘n Roll is very clear, the designer declared himself inspired by the timeless looks of George Harrison, Stevie Nicks, and Jim Morrison.
The day went on with the presentation of Malaikaraiss, which focused on creating a show that was as close as possible to the audience. The Berlin-based brand founded in 2010 has always implied technology in the staging of fashion conceived as a spectacle and for this occasion, the brand collaborated with Tableau CPH on a two-day pop-up presentation.
The SS21 collection has unveiled garments with soft lines that gracefully adorn the body. The pastel colors and the variegated textures are must-haves, which are combined with the skillful use of recycled materials, such as organic cotton and silk.
“Honestly, at the start of lockdown, I had so many doubts. About everything! I was re-evaluating what’s important in life, asking myself if what we do is enough. But then a light switched on – and for the past few months, I’ve never felt more certain. It’s what I am meant to do. I love it 100%. These are troubling times, but we are moving forward with new optimism, looking towards change.”
With this powerful statement, Ditte Reffstrup, creative director of Ganni, joyously declared the goal of the new SS21 collection, a space to reconsider our actions, a work table on which to experiment and seek new directions in the name of the optimism that has always being a part of Ganni. For this new collection, the Scandinavian brand has collaborated with Levi’s on a capsule that will be presented in spring 2021. The joy of collaborating has given birth to interesting harmonies and contrasts, opening up the brand to new perspectives. The key elements of the collection are certainly the dresses, embellished with details and gritty tailored cuts, such as balloon sleeves, or shirts with fluttering pilgrim collars. Crowning the presentation, a wide range of swimwear with strong character thanks to the leopard and floral patterns, entirely made with recycled materials and regenerated fabrics.
On August 11, it was the turn of Samsøe Samsøe that took advantage of the new digital space to present its collection directly from the neighborhood where the brand has firmly established its roots. Nørrebro is today a multi-ethnic neighborhood, where diversity is a value and is celebrated every day in all its corners. The SS21 collection represents this diversity like brushes do on a canvas; there are numerous inspirations and all coming from different cultures and subcultures, declined according to the Scandinavian style inherent in the core of the brand. Geometric patterns, light, and oversized fabrics narrate the contemporary fluid style.
The day went on with Stine Goya. The focus of the collection was the idea of fashion as a game, as an experiment through which we can find ourselves and our style, perhaps snatching a smile from time to time. The avant-garde movement of the Fauves, Matisse’s Dancers, and abstractionism influenced Stine Goya’s work, enriching the fabrics with seductive colors and prints. Sustainability is also a pillar here, which finds expression in the use of Ecovero and organic cotton. The presentation of the collection took place through a teaser and a video, to which was added an excursus behind the scenes of the Stine Goya House.
Rains was definitely a big surprise. The brand organized an interactive show for the SS21 collection in which customers could closely observe the looks they preferred. The platform had different angles from which to admire the garments, flowing through a narrative thread plumbed by several chapters. Like a story, the collection came to life and closer than ever to the viewer, further breaking down the walls between fashion and the audience thanks to the digitalization.
Entitled “Never Lost”, the SS21 digital show presents clear connections with nature and sustainability; the central space was an abandoned place where nature, by expanding itself, takes back what is it’s own. The lines are simple, the color palette respects the Scandinavian minimal tradition, whereas oversize cuts bring the clothes into modernity.
On the last day of Fashion Week, Hope carried on the statement that has been the backbone of the brand since its creation in 2001. A fashion without gender boundaries, refined, made unique by the conscious choice of materials. The main subject of the collection is the oversize cut, which rests on the body in an elegant and sinuous way. Trench coats, shirts, broad-shouldered jackets, and flare pants dominate the collection. The color palette is characterized by shades tending to beige, black, and white, which balances are temporarily broken by the shocking pink that dominates some garments.
For the spring of 2021, Marimekko, the Finnish brand founded in 1951, proposed a gritty collection thanks to the colorful and decisive prints, one of the characteristic features of the brand. To date, Marimekko has increasingly oriented itself towards a sustainable approach thanks to the collaboration with Spinnova for the creation of new fabrics based on recycled wood. The SS21 collection, therefore, presents a varied assortment and not only from the point of view of prints and colors – but also from a design perspective. Oversized cuts are the paradigm of this Fashion Week, here declined according to a lively perspective, in which the urban style embraces comfort and practicality.
On the Cover: Rains