MaxMara’s Resort 2021 collection was to be held in Saint Petersburg, in the magnificent Yusupov palace, and having to adapt the presentation to a classic lookbook was certainly a blow to the heart for anyone who was working on the project. Although the photographs are impeccable, the idea of the Russian city, its architectural splendors and its magical atmosphere really makes you think about the importance of live shows. Nothing can ever compete with the emotions that a real and effective location can create for the public.
In any case, the collection preserves the spirit of Saint Petersburg in the pieces, which the designer Ian Griffiths has undertaken to pay homage to. Graffiths is deeply fascinated by the buildings of the city, which are the result of the encounter between reasoning and poetry, meticulousness and imagination, rigor and exuberance. All Russian history can be summarized in some way in this aesthetic, because large restrictions have always been accompanied by disordered and sparkling luxuries. The collection thus takes the name of Reason and Romance and, for Griffiths, reflects not only the splendor of the Romanov court dresses (which the designer was able to study) but also modern times: if the clothes are to be functional, a part of us still expect unnecessary beauty.
The MaxMara palette moves from the classic camel to the pure white, up to a very pleasant blue tone. The shoulder garments are generally over, with a soft texture, while dresses and trousers are cut to perfection. The head pieces are the shining point of the entire collection and become jewels.
Cover image courtesy: MaxMara via vogue.com