Once again, Anthony Vaccarello takes us to an inhospitable place, cold and austere, where men are those out of place. After the desert of the SS21 collection, it is time for ice and silver beaches to reign.
At the center of the designer’s reflection there is the will to show how ephemeral human nature is compared to the landscape. It is evident how much the current pandemic situation has affected his vision, how much physical distance and estrangement contaminate the wintry atmosphere.
Coming to the collection, it is really nice to see how Vaccarello is able to play with house codes, moving away from the strictly-black classic suits. These, indeed, fade into vibrant colors, a clear reference to the 80s. We find purple, cobalt, gold, chartreuse, a manifesto of an opulence to which sometimes we tend to look with nostalgia and wonder.
Even the silhouettes refer to that period, like tight tight leotards with straps, accompanied by see-through tights. The suits and tweeds embellished with rich brocades, heavy earrings, pearls, and gold chockers are unmissable. Sequined boleros and narrow metallic tunics embellished at the waist with richly jeweled belts were dusted off the archives. This time accompanied by maxi to-the-knee leather boots and pointed heels.
It is an on going dialogue between different eras -the 1960s, 1980s and 2000s- a game in which imperfection is anything but wrong. Elegance and bad taste are balanced between faux fur and shiny leather, gold details and sequins. “It’s very French to walk that line between the good and the bad” Vaccarello admits.
Looking at the mood board, pictures of Peaches stand out. The electroclash singer was much closer to imperfections and therefore to truth than to classical beauty. What interests Saint Laurent today is the imperfect nature of things; the combination of two seemingly irreconcilable worlds. It’s about facing the present moment with a bit of irony and lightness.