The spring-summer 2022 collection by Salvatore Ferragamo was born in a moment of delicate transition for the brand. At the beginning of next year, Massimo Gobbetti will become the new CEO, and at the moment Guillaume Meilland – designer of Ferragamo menswear – is also in charge of women’s collections.
What inspired Guillaume Meilland was first and foremost Luis Buñuel’s 1977 film That Obscure Object of Desire. In the film, several actresses play the same role; starting from the idea of a plurality of shades all inherent in a woman, the designer has built his collection spring-summer 2022. He himself defined his work as a work of collage, in which numerous identities approach each other to describe different facets of the same person.
This collage is also evident in the garments, where the combination of different materials, shapes and colors dominates the scene: each dress seems to be part of a separate universe. These shades are purely warm, and black seems the dominant color, tinned on mustard yellow, brown, sand and animal prints.
The collection seems to tell of an adventure in the desert, where functionality is the main element; the fringes, the long black veils that bind the head give more dynamism.
Some asymmetries and silhouettes of women’s clothing are the elements that most distinguishes the work of Meilland; for menswear, he has opted for more defined and squared cuts instead, typical of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Therefore, the garments are mainly composed of sarouel caftans, alternating aprons with other more closely fitting to the figure and with dizzying necklines, high-waisted trousers and shorts; these are accompanied by tops and shirts of different workmanship.
Meilland also made reference to the archives of the house, proposing a floral fantasy reinterpreted by artist Julien Colombier and applied on a square t-shirt.