Schiaparelli couture fall winter 2021/22: “Matador”
“Matador” is the new haute couture collection by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli. After joining the brand in 2019, he had to prove his worth as a designer, as in all the steps of self-respecting designers. Soon after he found himself immersed in the pandemic nightmare, and now Daniel is ready to fight for survival. Like a real Matador. Survival of humanity, of course, but also of the fashion itself that has been hit so hard by this year of restrictions.
In his fourth collection, Roseberry “honors Elsa’s vision but is not a slave to it”. He tells how he found himself creating a “new feeling of freedom, to arrive at something fiercely, undeniably, unequivocally beautiful”.
The doors of the presentation open on a gorgeous (perfectly Schiaparelli) wedding dress. In fashion shows the bride usually closes the catwalk confirming, putting the fullstop on the entire collection just seen. Here Daniel Roseberry choose to put his fullstop from the beginning, and to make ourselves totally aware of what we are about to see. With 70 meters of pleated taffeta, we’re sure the rest will be just as eye-catching.
The presentation then unfolds in three rooms, starting from the first with a tribute to Elsa’s jackets. Here the concept of Matador becomes very clear and vivid. The looks are strong and combative, colorful and precious, without fear.
In the second room the accessories, which we already know how important they are in Schiaparelli, are the masters. The word accessory almost loses its meaning. They become absolute, enormous protagonists. We immerse ourselves completely in the futuristic and absolutely desirable gold of these jewels, which form parts of the body such as hands, ears, eyes, noses all messed up like in the best surrealist painting. Here is the new Roseberry’s reality, Bold beyond imagination.
The last part of the presentation is presumably the one in which Daniel talks about “a return to the innocence and joy that drove him to this job“. The colors are strong and suddenly explode, creating sharp contrasts. Life may be difficult now more than ever, but we will not stop regaining our positivity.