Presented in the Church of St Bartholomew the Great in London, Simone Rocha’s spring-summer 2022 collection takes us back in time, by presenting clothes with clear childhood reminiscences.
White dominates the catwalk, as well as lace, silk and tulle, which metaphorically symbolize the concept of rebirth, delicacy, as well as the return to a semblance of normality.
The evening gowns were decorated with pearly accessories, large collars, crowns and accompanied by leather shoes in Gothic style. These ones, create an interesting contrast with the apparent delicacy of the garments. Definitely impactful are the teeth-shaped jewelry, to recall the stage of tooth loss as a child.
“I was looking a lot into the way children interpret and wear clothes, but then also birth, the ceremony of christening and communion gowns” she stated. It is not the first time that Simone Rocha brings on the catwalk dreamy dresses; these are often fluffy and expansive like clouds, laced and decorated with lots of pearls. This time, however, what makes the collection interesting is precisely its intent to focus on a category of people usually not considered by fashion.
Also, images of motherhood and mother-daughter relationship are clearly visible, especially in the cheeky collars, plissé and flounces, up to the provocative nursing bralette. Even the religious setting is evocative, recalling the ceremonial acts of baptism. “It’s a big old disturbed, beautiful lullaby” the designer joked.
Moreover, white is sometimes interrupted by a light lavender, black, vinyl red and a floral theme. As mentioned above, the leather of combat boots are in contrast to the garments, thus serving as a catalyst for another side of women, the business-oriented one, dynamic and strong.