Daniel Roseberry doesn’t need much scaffolding to attract attention and the Spring 2021 Couture collection proofs that. It has been presented with a short video (231 seconds), realized during the lookbook’s shooting. It is energetic for sure, also thanks to the music and the clanging of the heels of the models in the background. And the clothes! Well, if we needed a collection that would leave us speechless for the pure and simple spectacle of the clothes, we may have found one.
Taking the reins of a Maison such Schiaparelli must not have been easy, we have always agreed on that. Yet, Roseberry has not missed a chance so far, and with every new collection, his aesthetic is clearer and stronger. Speaking of the collection, he said that it is “not as polite as couture typically tends to be”, but this is good, from several points of view. First, Roseberry, after Lady Gaga’s success at the White House last week in full Schiaparelli, aims to dress as many stars as possible, when the red carpets will go back to their usual business. The collection is full of eligible dresses and we can’t wait to see some in action. Secondly, Roseberry wanted to use couture as a space for reflection on the feminist philosophy, and its very long and very close relationship with fashion. The dress makes the monk, we know it well, and women have been for centuries limited by specific stylistic choices. Couture is usually hyper-feminine. What happens if someone wears a pink mini dress with fake-stuffed-muscles instead?
The mini dress we are talking about – along with the leather one paired with the bag and the bodice with shiny black abs – are just the tip of the iceberg of a collection that is fun, out of the ordinary and absolutely necessary. At least to show that there is an alternative and that things can be lively after all. There are many tributes to Mrs Schiaparelli (the bodices themselves, moulded on two full-length mannequins dear to the designer). The jewels are exaggeratedly beautiful as usual, especially the Madonna with the nursing baby. However, describing them is not enough: take a look at the video!
Cover image courtesy: Schiaparelli