While Fashion seeks new types of aesthetic and gradually challenges the idea of perfection that has dominated over its production for decades, the cultural debate on beauty languishes and the public splits. The politically-correct trend seems not have that appealing anymore and even the most engaged have difficulties in understanding and getting used to Gucci’s provocative campaigns, for example, or Vetements’ deformations. To individuate the mental schemes that bond us to outdate aesthetic models is not an easy task. They seem to belong to the most hidden part of ourselves, not
reachable nor changeable, especially because they are continually reinforced. We face every day perfect bodies on Instagram posts, while filters allow us to soften the peculiarities of our faces and even change the colour of our eyes. Magazines and newspapers suggest us the best ways to have smooth skin, or the fastest diet to lose weight or, again, how to emphasize our appearance and get complimented in the office. In television, the culture of beauty is supreme, constantly reminding us that a woman (possibly wearing little clothes) is always the best entertainment.
At the very beginning of this aesthetic dictatorship we find the unpunished intrusiveness of the gaze, the male one of course. It sits in judgement of what is beautiful and what is not, basing all its decision on its personal pleasure only. For this reason pop culture understands not much about Fashion that, on the contrary, defends
women’s natural right of feeling good without showing, feeling beautiful without modifications and feeling desired without tricks.
And if Fashion is going straight for its path, trying to set us free from the ugliness of beauty, we have the duty to live like rebels, never accepting the role of pleasurable leisure that male gaze reserved for us. Quoting a song from the 90s, let’s ask ourselves “Hey you, what do you see? Something beautiful or something free?” hoping that, in the future, the two can coincide.
Preview editorial from F/W 2020/21 issue
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Photography Fabrizio Martinelli
Style Federica Reali
Model Noemi Ercolani
c/o Independent Milano
Makeup, Hair Style Erica Peschiera