Thom Browne is certainly one of the funniest brands ever. The lightness of each collection, along with the shows that usually accompany it, brings joy and reminds us that dressing up is also (but not only) playing. In this case, we play to be who we want, changing identity every day without gender barriers. The latest collections of the maison have gradually become, over the years, gender fluid, and this pre fall is the maximum point reached so far. The suits that follow are suitable for both men and women and can be exquisitely feminine or exquisitely masculine depending on who wears them. The most beautiful suit, even if the most serious, is the black tuxedo one of the final, extremely sexy.
All the prints, the cuts, the very high waist and the suspenders, but also the little coats, the knee-length socks and the shoes (as for the last two collections, Browne has been very inspired by the period of Marie Antoinette at Versailles), they create perfect looks and the couples’ outfits are symmetrical and reflective, like two mirrors or a scene from Wes Anderson’s movies.The designer insisted on materials, in particular cashmere. The quality is so good and durable that “you won’t appreciate the cashmere, your son or daughter won’t appreciate. Your grandson or granddaughter will appreciate it. ” Not only sustainability, but also a declaration of the longevity of his lines, the classicism without end and without trend destined to last over time. There is nothing so futuristic and so traditional at the same time: gender fluidity and timeless lines seems to be the recipe for the future, according to Browne.
words by Giulia Greco