For the spring-summer 2022, Tod’s gives us a perfectly balanced collection, the result of successful experimentation by designer Walter Chiapponi.
The designer indeed, since his first day at home Tod’s has set a goal; I’m trying to dignify sportswear, to make it look chic,” he stated.
And indeed, it is precisely what the collection intends to express, a reasoned, logical and well-calibrated sportswear, suitable for any type of situation, even the most elegant and refined one. Presented at the Pavilion of Contemporary Art, the collection was all about short dresses and tight silhouettes, which partly evoked the swinging feeling of the 1960s.
Chiapponi said he was inspired by the film The Valley of Dolls by Mark Robson, released in 1967, as well as by the works of Fellini and Polanski. Always according to his words, the style of the film is a clear example of “severity and purity of lines, a refusal of decorative indulgence”.
Making the silhouettes “with the same tenderness of Fellini’s drawings”, Chiapponi has used different fabrics and materials, combined with the same design; nylon combined with the simplicity of anoraks, or raw wool embroidered in short sleeved- dresses. Always the wool, was worked in crochet to create sleeveless dresses.
This austerity in form is counterbalanced by a more explosive and varied color palette; on the catwalk there were emerald, amethyst, lapis lazuli and Mandarin dresses, resulting in a “technical decorativism”, as defined by the designer.
The result is a perfectly calibrated and reasoned collection, which has given vent to the best designs made so far by Chiapponi.