Daniel Roseberry is doing a great job at Schiaparelli, at least in preserving the heroic figure of the designer herself. Every historical maison has its own heritage, but Schiaparelli’s is a powerful one, bulky as well. It is impossible to take distance from it without disappointing fans and lovers. Roseberry is aware of it and he is not by any chance trying to deny the brand’s DNA, which is strictly bond the the world of art, surrealism specifically, and it is inclined to maximalist creations rather than to a daily peaceful wardrobe.
The Spring 2021 collection is in line with this philosophy. For Roseberry it does not make any sense to pivot to a everyday collection: this is not how the brand is born and this is not what Schiaparelli wanted it to become. Roseberry goes straight on his path and this collection is more eclectic, explosive and fun. It is elegant too. Suits have wide trousers and tight blazers; a couple of mini dresses in plain colours explode in voluminous ruffs; there is a big white shirt to be worn over pants and an asymmetric top for the evening.
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The real protagonists are jewels. Roseberry puts them at the center of his language and in them we find all Schiaparelli’s heritage, powerful and surreal. Necklaces, earrings, pins, but also fingers (yes, for real, fingers) in solid gold: it may seem models had a bath in a pool of liquid gold and they are now waiting to dry. Roseberry’s confidence is amazing, we like it, we are compelled to it. As much as we are delighted by his total love for women’s body, which is transformed in a golden statue of incredible value.
Cover image courtesy: Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry