For Spring 2021 Menswear collection, Isabel Marant chose the Center National de la Danse as a background, a brutalist building in the suburbs of Paris that provides carte blanche, in all senses, to the artists who exhibit there. The theme of dance has been more present than ever in this menswear fashion week, perhaps because we feel the renewed need to “occupy” spaces, with our body. It is not by chance that the other inspiration for the collection is architecture, whose main characteristic is indeed the spatial one. At the beginning of the video we read the guiding phrase “The masterly, correct and magnificent play of volumes brought together in light”.
For next Spring , Marant offers rather bulky garments, feature always presents in her DNA. Unlike architecture, however, there are no rigid materials, but only soft fabrics, from the wool of the sweaters to the technical fabric of the raincoats. 80s sportswear is a background that clearly fascinates Marant and is making a general comeback. Even in this case, it can perhaps be said that the body and its well-being is returning to the center of the stage, as it was in the 80s, with its extreme body care and athleticism.
Even the most elegant outfits – made up of tailored trousers and polo shirts, or shirts in the classic baby blue – respect the relaxed and comfortable style of the rest of the collection. Which is mostly aimed at leisure, personal expression and the full possibility of movement. Values that we are slowly rediscovering.
Cover image courtesy: Isabel Marant via vogue.com