Charles de Vilmorin, just 24 years old, is the new creative director at Rochas, after he succeeded Alessandro dell’Acqua. For spring-summer 2022, the young designer has conceived a collection full of content and interesting ideas for the future of the house.
Consisting of about 30 pieces, the collection focuses on the study of different silhouettes and materials, in what seems a real creative experimentation. It is clear that de Vilmorin is probing the ground to understand how to tell his story.
The garments are arranged following a distinct narrative sequence; they begin with structured and dynamic clothes, whose main theme seems to be fire. The flames rise from the bottom to the top, giving dynamism and volume to the garments. Very special are the combat boots, in fire red or gold. Even the materials, among which the shiny leather and tulle stand out, best express the idea of sensuality and determination.
A vivid example certainly offers the black evening dress accompanied by maxi boots in orange and red leather.
The second part of the collection is made up of prints depicting the designer’s abstract designs; the silhouettes are becoming increasingly larger and oversized, favoring freedom of movement. The plots on the evening dresses are reminiscent of his debut in Paris last January.
At the end, we arrive at the third and last part of the collection, composed mainly of dresses and mini dresses with checked print, and asymmetrical and unstructured silhouettes; we find cut shirts on the shoulders, laces and fringes that sculpt the figure.
It certainly seems a promising start, so many artistic influences of the designer and his will to experiment with fabrics. “It’s magical for me and a big, big challenge” he said. “I hope to tell a beautiful story”.