Even Anthony Vaccarello returns to show live in Paris, presenting the new spring-summer 2022 collection near the Eiffel Tower.
The main inspiration behind the collection for the next season was Paloma Picasso. In the past, Pierre Bergé had stressed the crucial importance that Picasso had in the creative transformation of Saint Laurent. The artist’s image, in fact, encouraged him to wake up from the torpor of Haute Couture and to throw himself into new challenges.
Years later, the stylistic influence of Paloma Picasso once again shakes the creative soul of Saint Laurent, thanks to the stylistic thrust of Vaccarello. “She projected a glamorous toughness. And it was a way for her to move through the world and hold her own”, commented the creative director.
The models therefore reflect the artist’s style, in the fiery red lips, large sunglasses and silhouettes with masculine reminiscences. There are numerous outfits on the catwalk with squared jackets with three-quarter sleeves and super tight pants, whether they are high-waisted jeans or spandex pants.
The looks are enriched by heavy maxi gold accessories, shiny leather gloves in Pop Art style and Tribute leather heels. Very peculiar also the jumspuits with an imposing neckline, taken from the 80s pieces of the Maison’s archives.
The motif that permeates the entire collection fully reflects the eclectic spirit of Saint Laurent, and reaffirms how the style of Paloma Picasso is adaptable to the contemporary; the increasingly genderless silhouettes, the feminine emancipation (which in the past coincided with the sexual one in the 70s), independence and freedom to express oneself without remorse. All this was Paloma Picasso and is Saint Laurent to this day.
On the runways of spring-summer 2022 we observed the trend of sensuality, a theme not at all foreign to Vaccarello. In this case, however, the designer managed to sublimate this trend, thus examining it from a political and social point of view, especially considering the challenges that the women’s empowerment movements are nowadays facing. Saint Laurent’s unique and unapologetic style can be a valuable support for present fights and those yet to come.