With the conclusion of Berlin Fashion Week, we look back at some of the most mentionable runway moments that will inspire the masses all year long. Day 1 of the weeklong parade of designers set the bar exceptionally high with Lana Müller leading the charge. A stunning contrast was formed between Müller’s softly subdued looks and Berlin’s steel-beamed Royal Porcelain Factory in which they were presented.
As models flaunted white, ecru, and pastel pieces that were ruched and ruffled at every opportunity, it was never lost on the crowd how poetic the unveiling of this especially fine collection was, being debuted in the same imposingly stark room that the factory’s delicate porcelain had been cast in years before.
Day 2 presented Neonyt’s take on responsible fashion, showcasing existing labels that serve the planet more than they do capitalism in order to suit the theme of the show: “Back to nature – High street fashion meets outdoor.” Models wore eco-friendly outerwear combined with locally-sourced labels to keep the environmental impact to a minimum while promoting designers that support sustainability.
Irene Luft pieces also took to the catwalk to show off a juxtaposition between the undeniable femininity of floral adornments against the opposing clear-cut lines of fishnet stockings and black, leather evening gloves. The stark clash of classically feminine elements with strong, durable materials was unexpectedly complementary.
Danny Reinke stole the show with his whimsical designs, mixing effeminate suits adorned with bows and slim silhouettes with certain animalistic qualities, such as faux fur and prints. This nature-inspired tone seemed to continue throughout the pieces as one could observe leopard-print shirts and boots in addition to feather-like materials seen in wraps, dresses, and sleeves on some of the designs. But no need to worry – no animals were harmed in the making of the final looks!
The Marc Cain and Odeeh shows rounded out the day. Marc Cain’s theme of “Pearls, Stories, and Champagne” attracted the likes of Katie Holmes to this energetic Golden Era affair. The runway was decorated as if to celebrate 2020 with a return to a decade long past – the 1920s.
The looks combined classical themes with new interpretations as models sported suits with exaggerated lapels and wide shoulders.
The Odeeh show brought its own flair to the runway, presenting loose-fitting looks marked by large, floral prints in plum, navy, and amber. Models wearing dark-hued suits would be highly contrasted by the pieces that followed, that opposing bright designs and conservative cuts.
Day 3 heralded even more sartorial genius as Lena Hoschek stormed the scene with winsome pieces featuring gorgeous traditional patterns mixed with gypsy-esque designs. The looks radiated an earthy, cultured feel as though the models could have been seen traversing oasis in the desert just prior to walking the runway.
What followed next was the Rebekka Ruétz show. The outfits were shaped in dazzlingly puzzling silhouettes, with oversized dresses draped squarely over baggy pants or too-long sleeves falling well beyond the models’ arms.
Nobi Talai came later in the day with some inimitable pieces that paid subtle tribute to the designer’s heritage, between a model carrying a bag decorated with taqiyahs to accessories and headpieces following closely in line with traditional Iranian fashion elements.
To close out the day was KXXK and Riani. KXXK seemed to be going retro with burnt orange corduroy and velvet details and exaggerated lapels reminiscent of the 1970s. Some looks even employed gaudy epaulettes and shoulder cords as if paying homage to a military institution.
Riani rounded out the third day with casual earth tones in the form of knit tops draped over loose-fitting trousers and skirts. There was an undeniable air of coolness to the catwalk as models strutted along in what will surely become the most sought-after cozy attire that can somehow manage to make its wearer look effortlessly put together.
There were undoubtedly some remarkable statements being made at the Berlin Fashion Week between clashing patterns and silhouettes to bold designs and bright hues. What may have been the most significant element, though, was the emphasis on sustainability. All throughout the week, there were showcases on making fashion as eco-friendly as possible. Never before has this been more important, and it will be vital for designers down the line to place an emphasis on organising their shows around being more environmentally responsible. Going green may perhaps be the one thing that never goes out of style.
words Kate Macchi